Botswana’s Boteti river is one of the many rivers affected by the waters feeding the Okavango basin.
This year heavy rains in Angola have resulted in extraordinary flooding of the
Okavango river system, feeding the dry Boteti river for the first time since 1995.
An e-mail from friends Elaine & John Dugmore in Maun had me hopping on an Air Botswana flight in a matter of days and armed with my camera equipment I flew to record a spectacular phenomenon.
Meno Kwena , partly owned by John Dugmore’s son, David, is a unique and beautiful tented camp located on the western edge of the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park.
Its focal point, a water hole in the usually dry river bed is the destination for herds of thirsty wildlife migrating from the National Park.
Herds of Elephant, Zebra and Antelope drink at the pan, in full view of the camp.
To many of the arriving animals, this will be their first sighting of a flowing river.
Each night I retired to the sounds of joyful Elephant bulls playing tirelessly in the depths. Clunking tusks and the whoosh of fast moving water resounded as the massive animals literally ran up and down the river, playing and jousting in the darkness.
John and I recorded wonderful sightings of these amazing mammals at play.
Small family groups of Zebras would descend from the plateau above the river as their neighbours patiently waited their turn. The animals made the approach to the usually limited body of water in small groups, perhaps used to waiting their turn to slake their thirst.
We watched as one Zebra family stood on the water, cooling down and quenching their thirst.
In their peripheral vision a herd of Elephant bulls responded to the Patriarch’s rumbling command making their way up the slope away from the water. 2 youngsters had however spotted the Zebras and while obviously concerned about the bull they were magnetically attracted to the striped creatures. Nonchalantly strolling towards drinking zebras, they clearly had mischief in mind. Entering the water within striking distance of their neighbours the young bulls filled their trunks and proceeded to spray the Zebras at will, causing an enormous commotion as the startled animals stampeded from the water’s edge. The satisfied young reprobates were duly satisfied and hurriedly followed their leader once more.
What an unforgettable few days – waking to the sounds of roaring lions and falling asleep to the sound of trumpeting, playful Elephant bulls.
The Dugmore family have a long history in the safari industry and a visit to the fascinating Looseum (Loo) reveals a wonderful array of old family photos.
A hide set in the river bank is fitted with a hammock and bed – a perfect situation from which to silently observe the wildlife on the opposite bank.
Excellent meals and friendly, skilled staff will make your stay a memorable experience.
Meno A Kwena has initiated the Water for Life Trust involving the local community in wildlife conservation projects.
There is much one can do from this special place including excellent guided tours to neighbouring parks and canoe trips on the river.
For travellers visiting the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park and surrounds, Meno-a-Kwena Tented Camp is a must.



